The end

Today was the last day of the program. We did not really have class today, but instead we went to a cafe across the street and had coffee and cake.

Overall, it was a very sad day. After a few hours people began to leave, and I suddenly realized that I may never again see some of them.

Last night was our Abschiedsfest, a nice dinner with all the host families followed by a few performances by the students. I contributed by singing a song with a couple other students to Volker Horn who is the Resident Coordinator for the program.

Volker is in charge of all the housing arrangements and trip arrangements for the program. He is also a really great guy who seems a little shy at times. So one can easily picture the look on his face when we pulled in front of everybody and started singing a song to him.

It was great. Although he was very embarrassed, he told me later that he really liked and appreciated the song. (I’ll try to get a copy of the lyrics posted here soon.)

In all, the Abschiedsfest was a big success, and a great way to cap off the program. But it was ultimately sad because it was basically the end of the program.

Tomorrow morning around 5 a.m. I am heading to Venice, Italy. I am not sure how much internet access I will have after I leave Graz so I must apologize in advance if this blog gets a bit boring in the next week. Hopefully I can find an internet cafe in Venice where I can write a quick blog post or two.

When I return to America in a couple weeks, I will be posting an in-depth analysis of the program and my time in Graz. I did not want to hastily post something today, but rather have some time to reflect a bit on the experience first.

One week

In one week, I will be in Venice.

Right now I am a little scared, a little anxious and a little sad to be leaving Graz.

That said, this next week will be one helluva week. Monday we will be visiting the synagogue in Graz. Apparently the synagogue was built by the city and given to the local Jewish community as “an act against forgetting” the Holocaust.

The building, built partially with bricks from the original synagogue destroyed in 1938, was dedicated on the anniversary of Kristallnacht in 2000. (Here is an interesting story about the building.)

After Monday, the “fun” begins. Wednesday I have a language essay test followed by culture essay test on Thursday.

On Wednesday I am hoping to do a Church Crawl in Graz. As of yet no one in the group is interested, but I am hoping more people will want to come. My plan is to see all the churches in Graz in one evening after school.

Thursday evening is our “Abschiedsfest” or going away party. We are supposed to be coming up with something to perform there for our families. I am kind of excited about it. It sounds very interesting.

Friday is our last official school day although we are not having regular class. The only thing on the schedule is a visit to a Cafe Sacher located across the street from the building where we have school.

Finally Saturday morning is when I leave for Venice. I had to change some things around on my itinerary again so I would have enough time to change trains. Now I am set to leave the house at 5:30 a.m. in order to make it to the train station by 6:54 a.m.

It should be a very interesting week.

Vienna

Schloß Schönbrunn

I returned from Vienna yesterday evening, and all I can say is “Wow.” Although I was only there three days, it did not take me long to realize what an incredible city it is.

That said, three days is not nearly enough time to see everything. I would need a month to see all the sights and visit all the museums the city has to offer.

Before the trip I spent a good amount of time planning out an itinerary so that I could see as much as possible, but I still feel as though I did not see very much.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to post during my time in Vienna so here is a quick run-down of the trip:

Sunday, June 10
We arrived in the late afternoon. After dropping off our bags at the youth hostel on the north side of town, we proceeded to take a walk around the Innere Stadt (historic downtown area).

Our first stop was the Schatzkammer (national treasury). This place was amazing. It is basically where the Austrian government stores all the precious items including crowns from the Austrian–Hungarian empire, random gold plates used by the royal family, a piece of the True Cross and one of the nails from the Crucifixion. I confess that I am not a big religion buff, but I even found this stuff amazing.

All the “bling” at the national treasury was so amazing that, naturally, our next stop was at a nearby cafe for some coffee and cake. The service was not exactly fast, but that was a good thing since it started hailing while we were inside. It was the worst hail storm that I have ever seen. It hailed so much that the street was literally white. For a moment I thought it was snowing … in June.

The hail really messed up our schedule for the day. We had planned to visit a few more sights in the Innere Stadt, but we instead headed back to the youth hostel to wait out the rain.

Our evening concluded with a nice meal at an Asian-style noodle restaurant followed by a visit to the Haus der Musik (house of music).

Sunday was definitely my lucky day. On the way back to the youth hostel, I found 60 Euros on an escalator in the subway. Before finding the money, I only had around 50 Euros to spend so it was a substantial contribution to my trip.

Monday, June 11
In our group we had the choice of going with one of the two associate instructors, the program director or going it alone the whole day. I decided to go it alone.

After the class pleaded with the two associate instructors to not visit so much “artsy fartsy” stuff after they did in Salzburg, they did in Vienna anyways. I am not into all that is “artsy fartsy” so I went by myself around the city all day.

My first stop Monday was Schloss Schönbrunn. Completed in 1700, the palace has more than 1441 rooms. (One of the rooms was the historic meeting place of United States President John F. Kennedy and Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev in 1961.) Schönbrunn was simply amazing. It was by far the coolest thing that I visited in Vienna.

After taking an hour tour of the inside of the palace, I took a stroll through the gardens. It was also very stunning. I hiked up to the Gloriette that sits on a hill overlooking the gardens and the back of the palace.

I had only originally planned to be there for a couple hours, but in the end I was there for most of the morning and afternoon.

Next, I took a short tour at the Reichsrat, the Austrian Parliament building. What shocked me the most here was the fact that no one was there. The building was completely empty except for tourists … on a Monday. I guess American politicans are not the only ones who never work.

At 3 p.m., I met up with the group again at Cafe Sacher for some free coffee and cake courtesy Indiana University. I was glad that I was not paying for the expensive cake I was not really impressed with it. Sacher Cake is supposedly world famous, but I thought it was very dry like it had been sitting out for a week. I think I have had better cake at Denny’s.

We finished off the day by going to see the play “Reigen” at the Burgtheater. Besides being grossly under dressed in shorts and an “Indiana Basketball” t-shirt, I was so hot in the upper deck of the theater that I felt sick. The heat alone ruined the play since I spent the majority of the time concentrating on fanning myself with a booklet.

I felt so sick after the play that I went back to the youth hostel immediately, took a half-hour cold shower and went to bed.

Tuesday, June 12
Still not happy with the associate instructors itineraries, I again trekked around the city by myself.

After a short breakfast at the youth hostel, I took the S-bahn across the city to Schloss Belvedere. I decided to not take a tour inside the palace since it now houses the national gallery. Once again, I am not into all that is “artsy” and “fartsy.”

However, the gardens at Belvedere kept me busy for about an hour as I walked all the way from the north entrance to the south entrance.

My next stop was the Heeresgeschichtliches Museum (Museum of Military History), literally around the corner from Belvedere. I had a little trouble finding the museum itself and ended up in an apartment complex before someone pointed me in the right direction.

The museum itself was very interesting, but I should have purchased an audio tour so I could have understood the exhibits better. Luckily, I had my “Lonely Planet: Austria” book with me to guide me to some of the more popular exhibits.

The most interesting thing at the museum was by far the Franz Ferdinand room on the ground floor. It has the car the Archduke was assassinated in, the bed he bled to death on and his blood-stained suit. I have read about the Archduke and his assassination numerous times in history classes in America so it was amazing to be that close to the objects that played a role in world history.

I spent a good amount of time in the museum, and afterwards headed back to the youth hostel to meet up with the group. Mid-way between the museum and the youth hostel, I stumbled on a Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant. It had been close to a year since I had eaten at a KFC so I decided to try out the Austrian version.

We caught a train heading from Vienna to a city in Croatia that was stopping in Graz. Three hours later we were home without having to change trains once.

Oh beer

Gösser Bier

Today I went with the group to Leoben. Leoben is a small city that lies about an hour train ride north of Graz. The city is a perfect example of a “typical” small Austrian city.

For history buffs, the city is perhaps most famous for the Treaty of Leoben signed by Napoleon Bonaparte in the city on July 1797.

All that said, there was not much to do in Leoben.

After a quick walk through the Kunsthaus (Art Museum), our teachers cut us free to walk around the city for a few hours. Really we did not need that much time since there was not much to do in the city. It was raining off and on in the morning so I ended up taking cover in a Pizzeria just off the Hauptplatz (city square) with a few people from the group.

I was very disappointed that the weather was so crappy because it would have been nice to be able to set outside on the Hauptplatz and eat. Despite the size of the city, it has a huge Hauptplatz that has a great view of a mountain in the distance.

Our final stop in Leoben was the Gösser brewery. Sadly, it was the most interesting thing that we saw all day. Before we took our tour, our tour guide let us try some Gösser beer with fresh pretzels. It was amazing. This was the first time that I had ever tried Gösser, and it is now my favorite beer.

Up to that point my favorite had been Puntigamer, but Gösser definitely blows it away.

Blessed are the pop artists

It sure seems to be the summer of construction in Europe.

No matter where I go here I am greeted by construction. In Budapest everything was under construction.

Salzburg, Austria was no different although the construction was easier to look at.

The Salzburg Cathedral was, like everything else, under construction. Crews were working on the front facade during my visit there last week. And like most of the construction I had seen up to that point, the construction scafling was covered with an advertisement.

But this scafling was different; it was covered by a swimsuit advertisement.

Yes, a swimsuit advertisement on a cathedral.

In Budapest I had seen an advertisement for Spiderman 3 on the side of an old apartment building, but I did not see any advertisements on churches under construction there.

Salzburg Cathedral
Salzburg Cathedral

But why a swimsuit advertisement? I mean come on. Of all things to advertise on the side of a cathedral why a swimsuit? Wouldn’t an advertisement for a charity be a better fit if you had to put one there? Even a T-Mobile advertisement wouldn’t be as bad.

The best part by far, though, was that the swimsuit model was Kylie Minogue. So not only do you have a half-naked girl on the side of a cathedral, but also a half-naked pop artist.

I do not consider myself to be a very religious person, but I though that this was very hilarious and sad at the same time. How hard up for money does the Church have to be to put H&M advertisements on the side of an ancient cathedral?

While we were in Salzburg, we did not know the name of the church so it automatically got nicknamed “Saint Kylie’s Church.”

I’ve heard that the pope wears prada, but I did not know that he shops at H&M.

I just wonder how many guys went to confessional, came out of the church, looked at Kylie and went back to confessional again.

Homework

It is really cool to be in Austria, but right now I am really hating the homework.

Since I am studying through the university, I am in fact taking six credit hours worth of classes here. Each morning at 8 a.m., I have Sprachunterricht (language) followed by a contemporary Austrian culture class.

For the language class, we are reading “Das ewige Leben” by Wolf Haas. It is a detective novel set in Graz. That makes it interesting since I go by some of the places mentioned in the book during my morning ride to class.

But other than the setting, this book stinks. It is incredibly hard to understand and the author has a bad habit of rambling about nothing for pages. On average, it takes me between four and five hours a night to read a single 10-page chapter in the book.

My instructor told me it should not take that long to read and to “quit taking it so seriously.” But I do not want to read through it quickly then fail the final over the book. Come on, it’s homework. You have to take it seriously.

On top of the nightly reading assignment we also have exercises out of our grammar book to do. These are not as bad as the book, but they do take a fair amount of time nonetheless.

Anymore it just feels like all I get done anymore is homework. When I get it done. I feel as though I am spending too much time inside at my desk doing homework and too little time out experiencing the culture.

In short, I am really frustrated with my classes right now.

Riegersburg

Riegersburg, Austria

Today the group took an all-day trip to Riegersburg to visit a castle.

The bus left around 2 p.m., and it was literally an all-day trip since we did not return until late in the evening.

Our only stop on the way there was a chocolate factory. The factory manufactures hundreds of different flavors including a chicken-favored chocolate. Ick.

After a tour of the castle, we made a stop at a local winery and sampled some local wine.

When we finally got back to Graz, I went with a few students from the group to a local cafe where we sat outside the cafe and drank. The cafe is apparently a popular hangout for local journalists and the inside of the cafe is decked out with typewriters and newspapers on the wall.

Willkommen!

Hello and welcome! My name is James Brosher, and I am a sophomore at Indiana University (Bloomington, Indiana) majoring in Journalism and Germanic Studies.

This summer I will be studying German in Graz, Austria for six weeks (May 11-June 23). After the program is finished, I will be spending an additional week sightseeing in Europe. I created this blog in order to chronicle my experiences and thoughts from my time in Graz and my journeys in Europe.

I have not yet left for Graz, but I am already starting to get nervous about the trip. What will my host family be like? Will I get lost? Will anyone understand my broken German? Basically, I am freaking out at this point.

What will happen? Stay tuned …