Reservations?

I have my train reservations made for Venice and back … finally. I have been putting it off for weeks, which is really sad considering I have been through the train station five times in the past two weeks.

Since I am traveling with a Eurail Pass, I also got it verified at the ticket counter today.

Just my luck, I happened to pick the lady at the ticket counter who was having a case of the “Mondays.” She was not rude, but I could tell that she was not happy about something. Also, she seemed as though she was mad at me for asking for something.

The whole experience rattled my cage a bit since the well-known stereotype for Austrians is friendliness. I definitely did not see that today.

As far as the friendliness stereotype goes, I have not seen it. It’s not that everyone is mean here, but rather that Austrians don’t sing merry songs while skipping to work everyday like the stereotype implies.

In the country

Austrian Countryside

Today I took a drive with my host family into southern Styria. This was the first time that I had been out into the heart of Styria and away from Graz.

Graz, like most big cities, is completely different from the outlying areas that surround it. Technically I have been living in Styria for the past five months, but in reality today was the first time I had explored the area.

Styria has a bunch of what the locals call hills. But the Austrian definition of a hill is different from the American definition. Some of the “hills” here as tall as the Smokey Mountains. My theory on this is that they are called hills because they in do way compare to the Alps in the Western Austria.

Styria is also known for its wine. Wineries cover a large portion of the hills, and Buschenschanks (wine pubs) can be found in almost every small village.

Life has a much slower pace out in the country in countrast to the fast-moving life in Graz. It was so amazing to just set in a hill-top Buschenschank today and just gaze at the valley below. In all it was a pretty neat day. We did not see a bunch of flashy, touristy stuff that one might find in Vienna or Salzburg. But then again I liked it that way.

One week

In one week, I will be in Venice.

Right now I am a little scared, a little anxious and a little sad to be leaving Graz.

That said, this next week will be one helluva week. Monday we will be visiting the synagogue in Graz. Apparently the synagogue was built by the city and given to the local Jewish community as “an act against forgetting” the Holocaust.

The building, built partially with bricks from the original synagogue destroyed in 1938, was dedicated on the anniversary of Kristallnacht in 2000. (Here is an interesting story about the building.)

After Monday, the “fun” begins. Wednesday I have a language essay test followed by culture essay test on Thursday.

On Wednesday I am hoping to do a Church Crawl in Graz. As of yet no one in the group is interested, but I am hoping more people will want to come. My plan is to see all the churches in Graz in one evening after school.

Thursday evening is our “Abschiedsfest” or going away party. We are supposed to be coming up with something to perform there for our families. I am kind of excited about it. It sounds very interesting.

Friday is our last official school day although we are not having regular class. The only thing on the schedule is a visit to a Cafe Sacher located across the street from the building where we have school.

Finally Saturday morning is when I leave for Venice. I had to change some things around on my itinerary again so I would have enough time to change trains. Now I am set to leave the house at 5:30 a.m. in order to make it to the train station by 6:54 a.m.

It should be a very interesting week.

Vienna

Schloß Schönbrunn

I returned from Vienna yesterday evening, and all I can say is “Wow.” Although I was only there three days, it did not take me long to realize what an incredible city it is.

That said, three days is not nearly enough time to see everything. I would need a month to see all the sights and visit all the museums the city has to offer.

Before the trip I spent a good amount of time planning out an itinerary so that I could see as much as possible, but I still feel as though I did not see very much.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to post during my time in Vienna so here is a quick run-down of the trip:

Sunday, June 10
We arrived in the late afternoon. After dropping off our bags at the youth hostel on the north side of town, we proceeded to take a walk around the Innere Stadt (historic downtown area).

Our first stop was the Schatzkammer (national treasury). This place was amazing. It is basically where the Austrian government stores all the precious items including crowns from the Austrian–Hungarian empire, random gold plates used by the royal family, a piece of the True Cross and one of the nails from the Crucifixion. I confess that I am not a big religion buff, but I even found this stuff amazing.

All the “bling” at the national treasury was so amazing that, naturally, our next stop was at a nearby cafe for some coffee and cake. The service was not exactly fast, but that was a good thing since it started hailing while we were inside. It was the worst hail storm that I have ever seen. It hailed so much that the street was literally white. For a moment I thought it was snowing … in June.

The hail really messed up our schedule for the day. We had planned to visit a few more sights in the Innere Stadt, but we instead headed back to the youth hostel to wait out the rain.

Our evening concluded with a nice meal at an Asian-style noodle restaurant followed by a visit to the Haus der Musik (house of music).

Sunday was definitely my lucky day. On the way back to the youth hostel, I found 60 Euros on an escalator in the subway. Before finding the money, I only had around 50 Euros to spend so it was a substantial contribution to my trip.

Monday, June 11
In our group we had the choice of going with one of the two associate instructors, the program director or going it alone the whole day. I decided to go it alone.

After the class pleaded with the two associate instructors to not visit so much “artsy fartsy” stuff after they did in Salzburg, they did in Vienna anyways. I am not into all that is “artsy fartsy” so I went by myself around the city all day.

My first stop Monday was Schloss Schönbrunn. Completed in 1700, the palace has more than 1441 rooms. (One of the rooms was the historic meeting place of United States President John F. Kennedy and Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev in 1961.) Schönbrunn was simply amazing. It was by far the coolest thing that I visited in Vienna.

After taking an hour tour of the inside of the palace, I took a stroll through the gardens. It was also very stunning. I hiked up to the Gloriette that sits on a hill overlooking the gardens and the back of the palace.

I had only originally planned to be there for a couple hours, but in the end I was there for most of the morning and afternoon.

Next, I took a short tour at the Reichsrat, the Austrian Parliament building. What shocked me the most here was the fact that no one was there. The building was completely empty except for tourists … on a Monday. I guess American politicans are not the only ones who never work.

At 3 p.m., I met up with the group again at Cafe Sacher for some free coffee and cake courtesy Indiana University. I was glad that I was not paying for the expensive cake I was not really impressed with it. Sacher Cake is supposedly world famous, but I thought it was very dry like it had been sitting out for a week. I think I have had better cake at Denny’s.

We finished off the day by going to see the play “Reigen” at the Burgtheater. Besides being grossly under dressed in shorts and an “Indiana Basketball” t-shirt, I was so hot in the upper deck of the theater that I felt sick. The heat alone ruined the play since I spent the majority of the time concentrating on fanning myself with a booklet.

I felt so sick after the play that I went back to the youth hostel immediately, took a half-hour cold shower and went to bed.

Tuesday, June 12
Still not happy with the associate instructors itineraries, I again trekked around the city by myself.

After a short breakfast at the youth hostel, I took the S-bahn across the city to Schloss Belvedere. I decided to not take a tour inside the palace since it now houses the national gallery. Once again, I am not into all that is “artsy” and “fartsy.”

However, the gardens at Belvedere kept me busy for about an hour as I walked all the way from the north entrance to the south entrance.

My next stop was the Heeresgeschichtliches Museum (Museum of Military History), literally around the corner from Belvedere. I had a little trouble finding the museum itself and ended up in an apartment complex before someone pointed me in the right direction.

The museum itself was very interesting, but I should have purchased an audio tour so I could have understood the exhibits better. Luckily, I had my “Lonely Planet: Austria” book with me to guide me to some of the more popular exhibits.

The most interesting thing at the museum was by far the Franz Ferdinand room on the ground floor. It has the car the Archduke was assassinated in, the bed he bled to death on and his blood-stained suit. I have read about the Archduke and his assassination numerous times in history classes in America so it was amazing to be that close to the objects that played a role in world history.

I spent a good amount of time in the museum, and afterwards headed back to the youth hostel to meet up with the group. Mid-way between the museum and the youth hostel, I stumbled on a Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant. It had been close to a year since I had eaten at a KFC so I decided to try out the Austrian version.

We caught a train heading from Vienna to a city in Croatia that was stopping in Graz. Three hours later we were home without having to change trains once.

Booked

Today I didn’t have school because it is the Austrian national holiday of Fronleichnam. Although I had been dreading it, I finally sat down and finalized by itinerary.

I ended up switching a couple things around more or less for logical reasons. For example, I decided to go to Berchtesgaden after Venice since I would be going past Berchtesgaden to get to my friends home in Southern Germany.

Also, I added another day to my Berlin visit so that I can see more of the city.

Saturday, June 23: Graz to Venice
Sunday, June 24: Sightseeing in Venice
Monday, June 25: Venice to Berchtesgaden
Tuesday, June 26: Sightseeing in Berchtesgaden
Wednesday, June 27: Berchtesgaden to Kaufbeuren
Thursday, June 28: Visit with friend in Kaufbeuren
Friday, June 29: Kaufbeuren to Leipzig
Saturday, June 30: Sightseeing in Leipzig / Leipzig to Berlin
Sunday, July 1: Sightseeing in Berlin
Monday, July 2: Sightseeing in Berlin
Tuesday, July 3: Fly home from Berlin

Oh beer

Gösser Bier

Today I went with the group to Leoben. Leoben is a small city that lies about an hour train ride north of Graz. The city is a perfect example of a “typical” small Austrian city.

For history buffs, the city is perhaps most famous for the Treaty of Leoben signed by Napoleon Bonaparte in the city on July 1797.

All that said, there was not much to do in Leoben.

After a quick walk through the Kunsthaus (Art Museum), our teachers cut us free to walk around the city for a few hours. Really we did not need that much time since there was not much to do in the city. It was raining off and on in the morning so I ended up taking cover in a Pizzeria just off the Hauptplatz (city square) with a few people from the group.

I was very disappointed that the weather was so crappy because it would have been nice to be able to set outside on the Hauptplatz and eat. Despite the size of the city, it has a huge Hauptplatz that has a great view of a mountain in the distance.

Our final stop in Leoben was the Gösser brewery. Sadly, it was the most interesting thing that we saw all day. Before we took our tour, our tour guide let us try some Gösser beer with fresh pretzels. It was amazing. This was the first time that I had ever tried Gösser, and it is now my favorite beer.

Up to that point my favorite had been Puntigamer, but Gösser definitely blows it away.

Blessed are the pop artists

It sure seems to be the summer of construction in Europe.

No matter where I go here I am greeted by construction. In Budapest everything was under construction.

Salzburg, Austria was no different although the construction was easier to look at.

The Salzburg Cathedral was, like everything else, under construction. Crews were working on the front facade during my visit there last week. And like most of the construction I had seen up to that point, the construction scafling was covered with an advertisement.

But this scafling was different; it was covered by a swimsuit advertisement.

Yes, a swimsuit advertisement on a cathedral.

In Budapest I had seen an advertisement for Spiderman 3 on the side of an old apartment building, but I did not see any advertisements on churches under construction there.

Salzburg Cathedral
Salzburg Cathedral

But why a swimsuit advertisement? I mean come on. Of all things to advertise on the side of a cathedral why a swimsuit? Wouldn’t an advertisement for a charity be a better fit if you had to put one there? Even a T-Mobile advertisement wouldn’t be as bad.

The best part by far, though, was that the swimsuit model was Kylie Minogue. So not only do you have a half-naked girl on the side of a cathedral, but also a half-naked pop artist.

I do not consider myself to be a very religious person, but I though that this was very hilarious and sad at the same time. How hard up for money does the Church have to be to put H&M advertisements on the side of an ancient cathedral?

While we were in Salzburg, we did not know the name of the church so it automatically got nicknamed “Saint Kylie’s Church.”

I’ve heard that the pope wears prada, but I did not know that he shops at H&M.

I just wonder how many guys went to confessional, came out of the church, looked at Kylie and went back to confessional again.

In review: Salzburg

Salzburg, Austria

Wow, what a trip.

Salzburg, Austria is such a beautiful city with so much to see that it is impossible to see everything in only three days. Unfortunately three days was all I got since I was with the class group.

We got there Wednesday afternoon and walked around for a while. That evening we went to a Mozart performance that was held in the fortress overlooking the city. The musicians were amazing.

I did not realize that it would be a dress-up event so I was grossly under dressed the entire time with an “Indiana Basketball” t-shirt and jeans. (Remember: Mozart equals dress up.)

Thursday we had an entire day to explore the city. We started at Schloss Hellbrunn on the outskirts of the city. Hellbrunn was simply amazing. Besides a castle, there is also a beautiful garden and even a zoo. After lingering in the garden for about an hour, we went to the zoo.

I am not a fan of zoos, but this zoo was amazing since the entire time we had great views of the Alps on the horizon.

Friday was our last day in the city and I spent much of the day with the two associate instructors walking around the city. The coolest thing that I saw was the Schloss Mirabell gardens.

In 1965 a few scenes from “The Sound of Music” were filmed in the Mirabell gardens. “The Sound of Music” continues to be a big tourist draw for the city. While in Salzburg, I saw several “Sound of Music Tours.” These tours visited several places in the city that appeared in the 1965 musical.

Salzburg’s other claim to fame is Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Mozart was born in the heart of Salzburg in January 27, 1756. The house where he was born is now a museum.

For the most part, Salzburg was a good trip. The city is beautiful and the people are nice.

The only downside to the Salzburg trip was the youth hostel where we stayed. It sucked. Quiet hours are supposed to start at 10 p.m., but it was not enforced because screaming girls could be heard throughout the night. It seemed more like a playground than a hostel.

In review: Budapest

Budapest, Hungry

Budapest was nice. The citizens of Budapest are another story.

During our time in Budapest, it seemed like we were treated like crap at every restaurant. I did not figure it out until later, but there is a 15% “service charge” on all food. That means they can treat their customers like crap and still get paid.

When I found this out, I quit tipping the rude waitresses and waiters.

The one exception to this was the personnel at the youth hostel where we stayed. The staff was very friendly and ready to ask any questions we had about the city. They even made a few suggestions on landmarks we should see in the city.

The hostel its self was very nice. Although the building it was located in looked like it had just endured WWII carpet bombing, the inside was very nice and clean. We even had a balcony where we set and watch the street below. My first hostel experience was a very positive one.

In the end, I felt as though we only scratched the surface of Budapest. There is just so much to see and do that it would take more than 3 days to see it all.

When in Budapest, I highly recommend a night cruise on the Danube river. Budapest at night is simply amazing.

Besides the people, the other low point of the trip was the train ride to and from Budapest. On the way there we had to move for some reason and the group ended up in thirty different compartments. Yesterday on the way back, we ended up again in thirty different compartments because we did not reserve our seats.

Europe is definitely different from America. In America you buy a ticket and you have a seat. The same is not the case in Europe. In all I was very disappointed with the train system and I do not recommend traveling by train when in Europe.

Fly or rent a car; at least when you buy a ticket you are guaranteed a seat.

Budddaaa

I am in Budapest … finally. My never-ending journey started at 3:30 a.m. this morning when I got up to get ready to go. My train left at 6:12 a.m., but I had to be at the station at 5:30 a.m. to meet the group.

Twelve of the fifteen students from the Graz program are here. On the train we ended up setting together in second class, but we later had to split up and go to first class. I guess that the second class car was not going all the way to Budapest.

A fellow student and I ended up in a compartment with a few rowdy Hungarian kids.

During the train ride it seemed that the further east that we traveled, the more economically depressed the landscape got. Just before we got to Graz, it looked like a scene from the beginning of “Borat” where he was supposed to be in Kazakhstan. (It was actually Romania.) I have also noticed a lot of U.S.S.R. architecture (blocky, colorless buildings).

The first thing that I noticed in the city is how grungy the buildings look. It looks as though they get a lot of acid rain here each year that destroys the stone buildings. Also, there is graffiti everywhere. I even saw a bus that was “taged.”

Besides Hungary, I am getting my first youth hostel experience. Our hostel is in a building that looks pretty shady, but inside the hostel itself is actually pretty nice. Since we have such a huge group, we have two entire rooms to ourselves.

This evening we are planning to take a river cruise on the Danube followed by a “pub crawl.” It sounds like fun so I am really looking forward to it.